I don’t think any of the survivor gear recipes are found in any book, you just need to get your skills up to the required levels. Best way to do that without books is repairing items with your sewing kit or going through your crafting menu and finding which items require the least time least time and resources and require the highest possible skill to successfully craft. Craft one item to see how much it raises your skill to find out how many you’ll need to make a batch of for a skill gain. Then go back into your crafting menu and see what new recipes have become available. Repeat this same process by crafting higher and higher skilled items until you reach your desired skill levels.
As for what is the best clothing and armor, this is highly dependent on your personal play-style and the season. Keep close track of encumbrance values and take note of how they affect your combat abilities. Anything over 30 encumbrance may seriously hamper your ability to dodge, aim, swing a sword or even run away.
I always go with the heavy survivor helmet since head encumbrance doesn’t matter. I also wear my light survivor mask pretty much at all times, but like to keep a heavy survivor mask in my vehicle as well.
Chitin armor can be very good, especially the arm guards which can soak up a ton of damage in melee. The boots and gauntlets are also pretty good but I stay away from the helmet because of it’s high eye and mouth encumbrance.
Winter survivor armor I only use for ice labs, it is way too encumbering for regular winter use. Much better to layer on some long underwear.