Tips, Tricks and Newb Questions: Reborn!

that means i can’t turn it on or off? is it slowdown the game?

Thanks for checking, Fload.

Another issue: How do you process a large kill in a reasonable manner?

I just went up against the dreaded Moose, and have spent 3 days without sleep (coffee) processing as much as possible, but a lot has been lost nevertheless.
What I’ve done (to allow people to point out better ways):

  1. Brought all the tools needed for butchering (replayed the encounter when I discovered that I needed a saw for the butchering).
  2. Brought a large backpack to be able to carry as much as possible back immediately (would a travois be a good complement in forests?).
  3. Full butchery, followed by loading up liver, fat, and some meat) (should probably have waited with the fat until after the meat).
  4. Went back to the “base” and stuffed everything into a minifridge.
  5. Dropped the combat gear and went back for more meat.
  6. Stored the meat in a minifridge, filling it, and moving the excess to the “main” minifridge.
  7. Went back for the last bits, stuffed it in fridges.

Repeat cycle:
8. Foie Gras on the liver for food when hungry.
9. Dehydrating 20 pieces of meat at a time using a dehydrator, replacing the battery between each set and dropping the spent one on a recharger.
10. Coffee when tired.
Repeating this until running out of battery power for the rehydrator due to darkness.
11. Converting fat into lard.
12. Finding that the extra minifridge didn’t have any power during the night (same vehicle as the recharger).
13. Once FINALLY out of meat to dry I made the mistake of starting a 20 batch of pemmican (that’s a 15 hour job, interrupted several times for food and drink).
14. Finding that the hides that didn’t fit into the secondary fridge started rotting, and so processed the ones that were still fresh.
15. Went to sleep and then finished the pemmican run.

I think a more sensible approach is to make 2 pemmican per batch rather than 20. There’s no batch saving, and the companion might be able to help (think he’s too poor at cooking, though). And then, rather than making pemmican for the next week, make one or two batches per day for as long as it lasts (I think the last batch of dried meat only had 1 out of 3 seasons left in it).

Much of the liver spoiled, and all the other intestines did as well. Is it even possible to process all of a large animal without access to freezers?

There are two ways to go about processing large game:

  1. Freeze it in a mini-freezer or ice lab. It won’t spoil once frozen so you can take your time to do with it whatever you want.

  2. Use smoking racks. Smoking racks once loaded with charcoal are able to smoke the meat without you having to babysit them all the time, allowing you to process the other butchery products. You will need to build a charcoal kiln to have enough charcoal for mass smoking.

You can hunt big game during winter when the ambient temperature is already freezing.

Otherwise you could set up a huge row of charcoal smokers on site of the kill and just go to town smoking/dehydrating the meat.

EDIT: Ninjaed by Junknown

Thanks both of you. I’d expected the smoking rack to be as stupid as the dehydrator and require baby sitting. Looks like it’s time to try to produce the means to produce charcoal, then!

My last big thread dealt with this issue actually. Might want to take a read.

Thanks gtgiyus, that was a useful reference.

any form of lockpick works on a gun safe just pick up a hairpin from a zombie corpse they have almost no weight or volume

or a pickaxe, but that is way slower, or a sonic resonator but that’s a rare cbm and that has a 40% chance to instantly break any tiles surrounding you no matter what they are

is there any way to turn off Z-level on latest experimental? my game got slowdown by using Z-level

No, you cannot turn it off anymore. It is an integral part of the game now.

Pickaxes and the sonic resonator CBM could also break the wall/door, as could Rat mutants with burrowing.

Speaking of the sonic resonator

That isn’t how it works. It actually bashes all the tiles around you 3 times with a bash power of 110. While strong enough to destroy many objects, there exist things like mi-go furinture and walls that will never get destroyed by the sonic resonator, no matter how many times you use it.

I used it to free people from mi-go towers and encampments it destroyed the walls easily (the most it took to destroy a wall was 4 uses (most of the time it took only 1)

You must mean the resin cages, the resin walls have str_min 250 and there’s no way resonator works unless I’m missing something.

yeah, I am an idiot.

When ramming something that spawns useful things (including corpses you want to butcher) with a vehicle, remember that wheels damage and eventually destroy everything that goes under them.

and road rollers do a lot more damage than others

Remember that wheels destroy items underneath them making them quite effective waste dispels.

Yes, I’ve found that things (that I don’t care about) have been destroyed by running over them.

Next question: How can you deal with heat in summer? As far as I’ve read, and think I’ve seen, being in a vehicle (with 3*3 roof coverage centered on PC?) activates an implicit aircon/heater, and being underground is chilly. However, when out in the field that’s not practical, as many vehicles morph when not driving in a cardinal direction, and just sitting it out, waiting for the over heating indication to go away and fading to comfortable, is rather boring (assuming it works).
My current situation is an example of that: Having walked a bit (essentially naked, carrying combat gear) my character went on a trip in a car (no road access to the “base” apart from through the z infested larger town), a fair distance in my (probably early) terms, and found I couldn’t pass the razor claws camping beside the road (I’d hoped to be able to drive past without angering them). My character geared up and wiped out about half of them with a bow and some manoevering to recover arrows, but when about to tackle the rest “Warm” changed to “Very hot”, and it became time to try to handle the heat somehow. The razor claws aren’t even my objective, but rather an obstacle on the road to a town that seems to have some useful stores (and, I presume, is crawling with zombies). This means I’d expect to see more fighting when actually reaching the objective. That, however, doesn’t work if I can’t even get there without getting overheated (once in the town I assume it might be possible to find and clear out a basement for cooling down (bring a book!), once a path has been cleared to that basement.

Edit:
Another question: Where can I find what the restrictions are for what you can mount on various vehicle frames?
Background:
I’m considering building a stationary “vehicle” to house all kinds of crafting, as a luxury RV is a bit small to deal with all needs. Since it’s not intended to take any kind of abuse, I’d prefer to make each section as cheaply and quickly as possible, which would mean a light wooden frame most of the time. My understanding is that as long as the doors are closed and there is a roof above, the temperature is kept in check, and so I can build it above ground. If not I’ll have to go below ground and wait until I can get hold of extended jumper cables.
I think I’ve seen that you need a heavy frame to mount truck wheels as an example of a restriction (which wouldn’t affect my current application, of course).

First, ill say that heat being a problem in summer is realistic. I was sweating like a dog today wearing everyday clothes tossing trash into a dumpster for 10 mins. I couldn’t imagine dodging monsters and shooting arrows at them wouldn’t get me sweaty. That being said, the penalties for getting too hot can be a little overboard.

2nd, don’t forget you can always sleep during the day and work at night. Night-vision googles or something similar would be needed, but it is doable. If daytime is a must, your best bet for dealing is to make sure your wearing proper armor. I know you have said before there were issues in that area, but maybe things have improved by now. The better armor you can make/find typically doesn’t need to be layered much at all, making it more heat efficient. For example, the Heavy Survivor Suit offers great protection with only 15 warmth (boxer shorts are 5, for comparison). Also, make sure what you have on needs to be on. Take off that welding mask, drop backpacks, don’t wear clothing that offers no protection, like socks or underpants/shirts. Every little bit will count.

Inside of a vehicle, “vehicle cooler” car part acts as an air conditioner that can be left on to keep you nice and comfortable. The recipe is written down in a book that shouldn’t be hard to find.

As for what can be mounted on frames, I have to say I didn’t know there were limitations at all. Building a pseudo-vehicle-workshop-house-thing should be very doable with just wooden frames. If not, light frames should be just about everywhere. But make sure you have the large “panels” to actually act as walls, not quarter panels. Also, keep in mind that there can be some wonkyness in regards to the reality bubble. The more you come and go from being close enough to your car-fort, the more likely things like frozen foods can unfreeze and rot on you.